McCallum , Northern Arm and Gaultois

Here on the chart you can see where I was during the story below.

The sail trip on July 29 to McCallum was a gentle one. The prediction was SW wind from about 20 knots but instead I had all the way SE winds from 15 knots. It was overcast but dry. Around 16.00 lt I was alongside at the floating jetty in McCallum.

This is also an outpost what means you can only reach it by ferry. This outpost slowly dies. At this stage there are about 25 people still living there permanent. Yes there is a shop and a school open for one student. After I cleared the boat I went for a walk and saw nobody at all. When I was 20 years ago the village was still full of live and today it was a sad situation. I stayed two nights and the second afternoon Dan together with his wife and friends dropped by. We had a beer and a chat.

The next day I left McCallum and the sun was out and there was a nice good SW wind. I went into Great Jervis Bay what is just around the corner from McCallum but instead of anchoring there I went out again and headed further up that bay. It was beautifull and an amazing view with all those high cliffs. Once all the way in I dropped anchor in 25 meter deep water but ended up in 45 meter deep. After an hour I moved to a spot nearby . That time I anchored in Victoria Cove and all was fine there till a strong westerly wind came and with that wind I was not on a good spot. I picked up the anchor and went by engine to “ Little Cuiller Bay “ where I was fine for that westerly wind. I had a very peaceful night there. The next day I picked up the anchor and ended in “ Goblin Bay “ and anchored in “ Big Harbour “ cove . A nice spot and the water depth was oke. But again a westerly picked up and I moved out . This time I sailed across to “ Stanley Cove “ . There the depth was only 10 meter and the holding for the anchor perfect and the scenery beautiful.

The next day I went anchor up after my morning coffee and a big breakfast and sailed to “ Great Jervis Bay “ . I anchored at several spots but the anchor would not hold good. The bottom was full of rocks . I could not see that but hear that on the anchor chain. Only behind “ Pearl Island “ it was oke and there I stayed . This island is just a few rocks and some tree’s on it but it gives good protection for a southerly wind . On the second day there the wind blew 25 knots but I was fine.

On August 05 I left Pearl Island and was heading for Gaultois. I went north of Long Island and trough “ Little Passage “ The sail to the Passage I did only on genua. There was enough wind from SW and I was not in a hurry. The wind strength was oke but it was overcast and at the beginning there was fog as well. In “ Little Passage “ I went twice for an anchor spot but I did like the weather , at that stage there was drizzle and fog , and I continued to Gaultois. This is also an outpost. There was once a working fish factory but that is closed now. The jetty there is rotten and not a good place to go alongside. I saw somebody on the floating jetty looking at me when I was coming in. Once near the jetty the men ask if I wanted to come alongside . I answered positive and he moved his boat to make room for me. I tied up and cleared the boat. That evening I did not go for a walk.

Gaultois was once a busy village. With the fishery going and the fish factory. But now there is not much to do. I heard from the men who was on the jetty when I arrived that there live about 85 people permanent in the village at this stage. There was a referendum about closing down the village and the outcome was yes. But there was an other referendum and then more people were against it. So wait what happen in the future.

The next day the sun was out and it was a nice morning. After the coffee and breakfast I took what I needed for a hike and went underway. There is a hike to Piccaire Harbour what is on the other side of the hills. It was a nice walk but the maintenance on trail is neglected so some parts it is a bit difficult going. Back in the village I first went to boat for a rest and then I made a walk trough the whole village. On that walk I met Dorothy who was from Ontario but had bought a house here. We had a chat and later a meal together in her house. From her house she had a nice few over the harbour and on the other side over the hills and the lake there.

The next day it was blowing from the wrong direction to make it for Hermitage and the fog and rain were back what made that I stayed an other day in Gaultois. And that morning Dorothy came for a coffee. And later in the afternoon I went to her place again. She could not stay away to long due to dogs she had.

On August 08 at 06.10 in the morning I left Gaultois for Hermitage . There was not a drop of wind so I motored the 3,5 mile and around 07.00 I was tied up once again in Hermitage.

While alongside of most of the jetties you have to use a fender board between your fenders and the jetty. The timbers are most of the time dirty and the space to big for your fenders. And your boat will move back and forth due to the long lines you have to use because of the tide.

I stayed a few day’s there. Here you have the use of a washing machine and a shower. The day after I had came in the sun was back and the washing machine made overtime for me. I also did some shopping in the local supermarket. Dan and his wife dropped by that first morning to say goodby. They were of to Nova Scotia.

On August 11 early in the morning I left Hermitage and went direction west to explore all the bay’s there.

Sagona Island , Bay de L’Eau and Harbour Breton

First the map from where the below mentioned area is in Newfoundland .

And here the chart from that area and where I have been.

The weather forecast for the trip to Sagona Island was oke. It would be overcast but a nice 15 to 20 knots south west wind. The whole trip I had the wind on the nose so I had to tack but the wind never came above 15 knots and it was nice and good sailing.

Around 13.25 lt on July 18 I was safe on anchor and cleared the boat and made the dinghy ready to go ashore.

After I had eaten something and had my last cup of coffee I went on expedition ashore. Yes I had to step in the icy seawater when I landed near the beach. The beach is a pebble beach and it was easy to get the dinghy on it.

After the dinghy was secured to a big rock I took of. Nowhere was something that looked like a path so I had to find my way by myself what I did carefully but I went oke. Once there was a village on the island. The fishermen had an advantage that they were close to fishing grounds. The village had been on the other side of the island. There is also a big inlet. I could have gone in there with Mylady but with the westerly wind and swell East Cove was much better. The first remains you see is the graveyard. Several stones are still standing. Then near the inlet you see every where remains from the houses and from the wharfs.

Amazing , because to me it looked like that it had been a reasonable village. Two house are still standing but they are also in despair and it would not take that long before they collapse also. Yes interesting to see al this. When I went back to boat I took a different and better route. And at 17.30 I was back on board.

The next day I did a few boat jobs. There was a bit fog and I went for a small roowing trip with the dinghy. Of course not to far so I would lost my way .

And made the boat ready for the upcoming SW gale that was coming . The wind would increase to 25 – 30 knots. And the next morning it picked up but I was fine on anchor , that is what I thought at least. But on July 20 around 16.00 the anchor lost a bit grip and we dragged a small distance. I was not alarmed but I was not happy either. So I picked up the anchor and re anchored again but I was not happy with my new position. I picked up the anchor again and anchored a bit further out . I by any change the anchor would drag during the night , on this spot there were no rocks behind me. But the anchor ground was much better and without anyproblem the anchor set very good. At 20.00 the wind meter a few times went over 30 knots and a few time – in gusts – hit the 40 knots.

Yes a real gale. But may be it sounds strange I slept that night pretty good. The next morning the sun was out and most of the wind gone.

After the coffee and breakfast I picked up the anchor and was heading for Bay de L’Eau.

Due to sun and the very good visibility it was perfect day to sail to this bay. From a distance you could see the high cliffs already. To go to “ Old Bay “ I took the route that went trough “ Miller’s Passage “ . According the chart there was only about 2,4 meter at low tide . I passed there at low tide and had 5 meter under the 2 meter keel , so plenty . Once in “ Old Bay “ I sailed all the way till the end in.

But the anchorage was a lee shore. I turmed around and went a mile back and found a good spot just behind “ Deepwater Point “ with good holding for the anchor and the scenery from there was also perfect.

The next day was sunny again and also no fog for a change. I had an easy start but around 12.00 the anchor was out and I went a bit back up the bay. I dropped anchor behind “ Little Devil Island “ what was an excellent spot. I had a nice and beautiful view all around . And the view in the direction of “ Taylor Bay “ was amazing.

The next day it was overcast and there was it was a bit foggy. I stayed on anchor on this spot till July 25. That morning I picked up the anchor went the same way out of the bay as I had came in.

Once out on the open sea I had head wind but it was nice and good wind. And yes there was fog but not that heavy. I was heading for Harbour Breton. This is for Newfoundland standards a big town. I had a good sail all the way and around 13.30 I was tied up alongside the floating jetty. And just a few minutes behind me an sailboat with an Canadian Flag came alongside. It was only the second boat I saw since I was on the coast. Of course I had a chat with the couple who was onboard. Later we had an other chat just standing on the jetty nad that was all the contact we had.

After I cleared the boat I sat down in the cockpit and had a look at all around me. A men who was walking on the jetty wanted to know ere I was from etc etc . I asked him about the shops and where I could refill a propane bottle. He gave me all the info and then ask if I had the gas bottle on hand then he could bring me there and back. And so 10 minutes later we were underway. The place was close to the boat and we were back near the boat in about 30 minutes. Then he told me that a long time ago he had met somewhere in the bay a Dutch solo sailor and together with his kid he had look on board the sailboat. And you know what that solo sailor that was I . Yes an amazing storry. The next day I walked over to the foodland supermarket and did big shopping The store had a car to bring me which all my stuff back to the boat . The next few days I went back a few times. I also bought small batteries at the one dollar shop what was just next door of Foodland.

On Thursday July 28 all the jobs were done and after coffee time I went for a big walk to see a bit more from Harbour Breton.

It is a wide spread out town and I walk a bit of it and took some pictures. On July 29 it was time to go again. At 08.30 I had finished my coffee and breakfast and the boat was all ready. I let go the lines and went once more underway. I was heading for the outpost of McCallum. My friend Dan would be there the next day and I wanted to see this small outpost again.

Sailing in Fortune Bay.

This post I shall start with a map of Newfoundland to show you in wich part I sailed.

And then is here a chart with my sailing tracks in Fortune Bay.

Also this bay is a beautiful bay to cruise around . There are a few small places like Belleoram , Pool’s Cove , Rencontre East and a few more that I didn’t visit.

In the last post I left you while I was on anchor in South East Bight in Long Harbor.

The two pictures were from ” rocks ” that were close to my anchor spot.

I stayed there on anchor from July 05 till July 07. While I was on anchor I had rain and fog but saw enough from the surrounding. And because of the rain there were several waterfalls. On July 07 the weather forcast gave strong westerly wind and for that direction the spot was not that good. On July 07 at the end of the day the sky cleared and I picked up the anchor and motored slowly away from the amazing spot. When I passed “ Keeping Cove “ I went in and checked it out for anchoring but went on to “ Grundy Cove “ and there I was fine for the upcoming wind and the holding for the anchor was oke.

Also the surroundings were well worth seeing. The next morning while the sun was out I had first my morning coffee and breakfast. After that I picked up the anchor and went direction entrance of Long Harbor. But just around the corner before you can go out there is small cove and there are some cabins on the shore. And instead of going out the harbor I went on anchor in

“ Anderson’s Cove “ . While on anchor there that day I did some jobs on deck like cleaning the anchor winch.

The next day – July 09 – after the coffee and breakfast I lifted the anchor and went underway to Rencontre East. At the anchorage and in the entrance of Long Harbor there was enough wind but further out the wind was completely gone , not a drop any more and the rest of trip the engine had to do the job. In Rencontre East I found a good spot alongside the government wharf. The name of the place maybe sound like French to you and yes that is right . In the early day’s of european influence the French were al around on this coast.

This village only connection to other places is by ferry. There is no road. Twice a day the ferry makes a stop and overnight the ferry is also moored there in case there is an emergency. After my arrival I cleared the boat and had a coffee and something for lunch . After that I went for a walk. While walking around I didn’t see any person around . It looked like if the village was a ghost place. I met at the end one lady and we had a chat. She and her husband were living there for the summer months and rented 3 houses out and had even opened a small cafe for there guests and locals. That afternoon she was making fresh bread and I bought one and it was good eating. Later in the afternoon and specially when the ferry arrived there was some live around. For mobile reception I had walk up a hill near the harbor and there while slowly walking around I would have reception from a network.

The next day the wind was blowing with 25 to 30 knots from the west but where I was moored it was oke and calm. Although it was rough outside the ferry made his daily runs. On July 11 the wind was down and I left Rencontre east ( yes there is also a Rencontre west ) and was heading for Belleoram. The sail to there went oke although I had the wind on the nose and had to tack. At 15.00 I was safe anchor once again the harbour of Belleoram.

That week the festival was on the go. Every evening there was something to do like on Tuesday there was fireworks. It was not real big but nice to see and on Wednesday there was a talentshow in the community centre with good music. The highlight was the Friday and Saturday evening with live bands with all kind of music. The band on Friday played all kind of music but and among it Newfoundland music what is bit the same as irish music. On Saturday evening they were there for an hour or so and the other two bands played nearly only popular music. But still there was a lot of fun around . I had been at the same festival 20 years back and I think that time the music and general atmosphere was better. But I had a good time and met some local people who wanted to know who I was and where I was from. Because mostly it was that everybody new each other.

On Monday July 18 I picked up the anchor and was heading for Sagona Island .

Sailing Fortune Bay

When I left Sagona Island it was overcast and there was a good wind from the South West .

I was heading for Belleoram but wanted to see if I could go in at English Harbor West. The sail to that port went fine. When I was near it I took the main sail down and only on the genua I approached it. But when I came near the harbour the wind increased and blew straight in the bay of the harbour so I skipped it. I continued along the coast and checked out the next bay “ Blue Pinion Harbour “ but it was the same as before and so it was with the next bay “ St Jacques “ . The only safe place would be Belleoram and I sailed on to that port. I had been there about 20 years ago and that time the old ferry pier was good to tie up. But when I entered the harbour I saw that the jetty was far from good and the rest of the places where I could go alongside were used. And besides that there was a big barge moored in the harbour and they were busy to make a new jetty. I circled around and decided to drop anchor. The harbour was big enough so there was enough room and about 20 minutes later on June 28 I was safe at anchor.

I cleared the boat and made the dinghy ready and took my stuff like money, mobile phone and my camera and went ashore. While on boat I noticed that the reception from a network for the mobile was nearly nil. While ashore I had a chat with a men who worked there on the quay. He asked if I was from the sail boat on anchor in the harbour and I told that I was. He said that it was a long long time ago that a sailboat anchored in the harbour so Mylady was something special. When I asked about the reception for my mobile he said there was nil but I could use there wifi while ashore. But before I checked anything I first had a walk trough the village. Belleoram is a small place and it is connected to outside world by a road. The main thing what is going on is the fishery. The season for lobster fishing was over so the movement with boats was only a little bit. On the second day somewhere in the afternoon a boat stop near Mylady and asked the normal questions , where I was from etc etc , and if I liked eating fish. When I said yes they gave me a fresh cod fish. I said thanks and started to clean the fish straight away. And that evening I had fresh fish for dinner.

I stayed a few days in Belleoram and a few times had a chat while walking trough the village. And I didn’t had to tell the people that I was from the sailboat because they knew that already. On July 01 I left Belleoram and sailed to South West Arm what was not far from Belleoram.

There I drop anchor that way that I had protection for a southerly wind that was predicted. It was a good and nice spot but the rain and fog made that I didn’t see all the beauty for twom day’s. On July 04 I pulled up the anchor and sailed for Pools Cove . When leaving I had the wind on the nose and tacked out the bay. Once out the wind ropped till nearly zero. I just drifted and waited for the wind to come back and it came back from an 180 degree direction and that was oke for me.

I had a nice sail to Pools Cove and tied up there at 15.50. After I had cleared the baot I went for a walk. Pools Cove is a small but nice village. When I was at oat again a big boat from the fish farm company just came in and I had to move to make place for them. I went alongside at the floating jetty.

The next day was a beautiful and windy sunny day . Yes a perfect sailing day so at 13.00 I let go the ropes and left for Long Harbor. This is a big long bay with on one side high rocky cliffs. Also the entrance is something special. The sail was a very good one with a strong wind and lots of sun. Just before I entered Long Harbor I lowered the main and went in only on the foresail. About 3 nautical miles after the entrance is Tickle Head and there the current was a bit strong and on both sides it was not to deep but I passed it without any problem and went on . I had to find a spot to get protection for the south westerly wind what came for me from behind. And I found a beautiful spot . Yes again a beautiful as there are so many around this coast. At 18.05 I dropped anchor in the South East Bight . I had a view on some high rocky cliffs and good protection. It was time to clear the boat and a beer and a good view on all this. And an other good sailing day came to its end.

Sailing in Bay D’Espoir

On June 16 , 2022 at 13.00 local time I took the ropes in and left Hermitage to explore Bay D’Espoir. Why I left so late in the day ? First I was not in a hurry , second in the morning the wind was only very weak and third I wanted to buy some meat and fresh veggies just before departure.

Once out the cove from Hermitage harbor there was a nice wind but on the nose. After the sails were up I sailed closed hauled because I was heading in a westerly direction and that was were the wind was coming from. But the wind was playing tricks. At one stage it was nearly zero and then it came back with nearly 20 knots and it shifted from SW to NW and back. But at the end it settled in the WSW and I could sail in one line across Hermitage bay to the entrance of Bay D’Espoir.

I wanted to sail to Pomley Cove and that went oke. Although once in Bay D’Espoir the wind increased til 20 knots again. I lowered the main and took it easy only on half on the genua. Why full speed , I wanted to see something and with full sails that isn’t possible. Around 18.30 lt the anchor was in and I was safe and good at anchor at a beautiful peaceful spot. Time to clear the boat and then a beer. After I had finished my sundowner I made myself something to eat. The only sound here was from the birds and a waterfall I could not see.

The next morning there was not a breeze and the reflections in water from the rocks around me where amazing. At 12.00 lt the anchor was out and I was by engine to Roti Bay.

I picked that bay because the weather forecast was a strong southerly with rain and fog. The whole sail trough Lampidoes Passage I did on half of the genua because there was enough wind from the west. At 14.45 the anchor at the second attempt was safe in. The wind was still strong but the weather still oke. That changed overnight. The wind picked up and the rain started. The next morning I did not felt safe and pick up the anchor and moved to the next cove and there it was better. The next day the weather was still very bad so I stayed where I was.

On June 20 at 12.00 I picked up the anchor and motored out the bay in the direction of st. Albans. Around the point where I could turn north the wind was oke and I rolled out the genua and sailed to st. Albans. It was still overcast and it rained a little bit but there was no fog. At 14.35 lt the anchor was safe set and I cleared the boat and made the dinghy ready to go ashore. I was not to far from a spot where I could go ashore so I rowed. St.Albans is a little bigger village / town for Newfoundland standard. I walked a bit around but there was nothing special to see . I found a petrol station and asked if they could refill a propane bottle. They couldn’t but in the next village it was possible. I checked that on the internet and made a phone call and yes in Milltown it was possible. This village was just a bit further up the bay.

The next morning I pulled up the anchor and sailed only by using the genua to Milltown. There I dropped anchor near the floating jetty. The way this floating jetty was moored I though it is better I anchor instead going along side. There was also a big wharf but anchoring was in the case easier. After a lunch I took the gas bottle and my little very trolley and rowed ashore. The service station was “ only “ a 45 minutes walk. But oke I saw something from the surroundings and the first thing was a waterfall. When I arrived at the service station the lady behind the counter told me before I could say anything that I was coming for propane and gave a yell to somebody in work shop.

He looked at the bottle and at the last date on it , looked at me , and then refilled the bottle. While I payed I had a little chat with the lady. She wanted to know the normal stuff , like where I was from etc etc . After that I had a chat in the workshop with the two men who were busy there. By then it was time for me to walk back. I was just 10 minutes under way when a car stopped and asked if I could use a ride and of course I said yes. He brought me to the jetty where my dinghy was. He was the brother of the men who had filled the bottle and that men was the owner of service station.

Once at the jetty the driver asked about my boat and my travels and we had a nice chat.

When I left Milltown the sun was out and there was a nice wind from south west. I though only to sail over to st Albans but when I was near there I decided the day was to good to stop sailing and I continue. I made a short anchor stop to pull the dinghy on deck. I had still behind the boat but for the rest of the trip that was not to good. All the way I had the wind on the nose but to tack was with the present wind not a problem. When I was near Patrick Harbor I went in there and thought to stay there for the night. But the anchoring there was bad. The anchor didn’t want to hold at all. The sun was still out and I went out again and sailed on to Great Jervis Bay. In the mean time the fog came in. But the fog was coming and going. At 20.30 the anchor dropped in Great Jervis Bay. It suppose to be beautiful there but the fog made it that I didn’t see a lot of it

I stayed two days on anchor in this bay. The weather out was very windy and raining. I was fine were are was. And here I saw my first other sailboat but they dropped anchor on the other side of the bay and I had no contact with them . On June 24 I sailed to Hermitage and was alongside there around 17.00 lt that day.

I stayed a few day’s in Hermitage and on June 27 I let go the ropes and left. From Hermitage to Pass Island was a good sail and I took a short cut and sailed trough the inside of Pass Island. That went fine but when I was trough the wind was gone. I used the engine for more then an hour before the wind came back and I could sail again. I was at that stage heading for Sagona Island , Eastern Cove. There I dropped anchor at 19.30 lt. A nice and peaceful anchorage. I only stayed here one night before heading on to Fortune Bay but one thing was sure I would return to this island to have a look ashore.

Mobile Network Reception in South Newfoundland

Here on the south coast of Newfoundland the network reception in nerly nil or complete nil. Yes all people have of course a mobile but the fun is they only use it around or in the house. All have a landline connection and wifi around the house. And a lady from a shop in Belleoram told me that she had pay around 250 can dollar per month for a connection for internet and the normal phone. In Hermitage I had a reasonable network reception and I could use the wifi from the harbor. In st Albans the reception was only a bit more then low so I could use my phone. And when I was in Great Jervis Bay where is only a very small outport nearby the reception was also not to bad. But once I was in Fortune bay there was most of the time not a signal. In Belleoram I met the people from the fish plant who gave me the password from the wifi because the network reception was nearly always zero. In Pools Cove the normal signal was gone but the town wifi was oke and luckily somebody knew the password. In Recontre East only when you walk up a hill near the harbor and they slowly walked a bit around you had a signal.

All this is also the reason that I can’t update the website all the time but I do my best when there is a possibility then I post something.

Hermitage

On saturday several locals passed by for a chat. They wanted to know where I was from and if I had sailed all the way from the Netherlands in that boat. For them a boat you use for fishing and not to live on.

One guy told me that I had to move the boat Mylady because a lobster boat who would come in at the end of the day was always moored there. Changing to an other place was not difficult . There was a spot just next to me and so I changed place that day. During the day it was sunny and in the afternoon I went for a small walk around the harbour and also visited Dan at the place where he keeps his fishing stuff and boat.

Dan is mainly a lobster fisher but also catch other fish. That same afternoon I was invited for a small party at the house of Dan. He would have Lobsters to eat and a beer to it. There were also steaks. Beside me there were some other friends from Dan as well.

Dan showed me how to open the lobster and how to take the meat out. They were very very good eating I should say. Off course the other people wanted to know all about me and the boat. It was a nice and good party with good food and good company.

On Sunday I first had an easy morning and later that day I went for a walk a bit out of the village. There is a lake and they made a walkway all around the lake and I did that whole walk. It was a pleasant one due to the fact that it was a sunny day.

Hermitage harbour is not to big but full with big and small boats. Nowadays a big part of the harbour is occupied by boats from the firm who runs all the fish farm in the surroundings.

On monday June 13 Dan dropped by at Mylady and told me to get ready because we would make tour. I got ready and in the mean time Dan went to his shed to pick up his 6 x 6 , yes that is what he called it. And with that vehicle we went for a tour to a look out point and yes for that road up to there you need a vehicle like the 6 x 6. From the lookout we had a beautiful look over the surroundings from Hermitage. And we saw the fog slowly rolling in. From one other point we had a beautiful view from Hermitage. Yes it was a special tour.

As I mentioned before we saw the fog slowly rolling in. And yes that early evening the fog slowly came into the harbour. It was a special sight to see it slowly made the surroundings go behind the white air.

On wednesday evening I was invited by Dan and Ro , his wife , to come over to there house for a special fish dish and yes it was special and good eating. It was for the time being also a farwel because the next day I would sail into the Bay D’Espoir. That is area behind Hermitage. All in all I had a very good start from my coming months in Newfoundland. On Thursday June 16 I left the harbour I set sail direction , yes where would I go . When I left I had not a special destination in my mind . I thought just see how the wind is out side the harbour and then I make a plan. There was a nice wind and I went in the direction “ Pomley Cove “ .

From El Hierro, Canary Islands to Hermitage , Newfoundland , 6070 nautical mile.

While in the marina of El Hierro I checked the weather on Windy.com again and again but the wind was steady strong from the north and that was the direction I wanted to go. I still had a plan in the back of my mind to go back to Newfoundland one day. I thought maybe to do it from the Azores and then hard to windward across the north Atlantic. But here I was in El Hierro and the trade winds would blow me down wind across the Atlantic and then I could go north also the easy way if I keep a good eye on the weather. And so this plan became reality and on March 02 , 2022 I was underway for the 3 rd time to cross the Atlantic with Mylady from east to west. That trip went indeed downwind but it was a rough trip. Then from st Martin I made it in one go all the way to Charleston. On that leg I had 24 hours a strong wind on the nose but the rest all the way down wind or a broad reach. Then in general from Charleston all the way to Newfoundland it was again either down wind , a broad reach or wind from abeam. And I arrived safe and sound on June 10 , 2022 in Hermitage , Newfoundland. ‘

Here is the map from the whole trip.

Anchor up and heading for Newfoundland.

The wind was from the wrong direction to sail away. It was direct from forward so I had to tack her the whole arm out. Normally not a problem but I was late and wanted to be out there on the open sea. The engine did it’s work perfect and about an hour later we were in the open and the sails went up. There was a good and strong wind but I could sail full sail. The sun was out also what made it all a perfect sail. After I passed the last bouy of the entrance I slacked the sheets and continued with a more northerly course. Around 20.00 I was near “ Three Fathom Harbour “ what looked on the chart an easy place to go in and also a good place to drop the anchor for the night. And yes with the buoy’s marking the entrance it was easy to sail Mylady under a small Genua in and at 20.30 I was save on anchor and cleared the boat and had a beer.

The next morning on June 05 at 07.00 the anchor was up again and Mylady and her skipper were underway again. There was not a lot of wind but enough to make the sail oke. Luckily is this area there were nil lobsterpot markers what made the sailing much more relaxed. But I still had to keep a good lookout and a good eye on the chart because there were enough rocks around . BY 18.00 I was near Popes Harbour and I thought – looking at chart – that is a good spot for this night. And I changed course and went in towards the anchorage inside Shelter Cove . If you look at chart then there suppose be hardly any water for Mylady but the information in my cruising guide said that there would be water enough and they were right about it. I had more then enough distance between the keel and the bottom of the cove. At 18.20 the anchor was safe in and as you know by now I cleared the boat and took a beer.

The next morning the wind was first zero but it picked up an bit around 10.0 and I pick up the anchor and went underway again. But outside the wind was minimal but I made slowly progress in the right direction . Around 14.00 the wind thought that it was enough for that day and died out. I had a look at the chart for an anchorage and a good one was in “ Sheet Harbour Passage “ just near “ Deadman Island “ yes indeed interesting name. Around 14.30 the anchor was safe in and I cleared the boat and took a cup of thee. The sun even came out for a while and it was a pleasant afternoon. Around 18.30 the wind picked upo from the right direction and the prediction for the night was also good. I thought way wait if the wind and the weather is oke and I prepared the boat again and at 20.00 I was underway again.

The sailing went very good with a good wind. Just before it became dark I was out on the open ocean. If I had done the upcoming passage at daylight I would have stayed more close at the coast but now I went a bit further out. Just to avoid any change to get trouble with lobsterpot markers. The whole night the wind was oke. It went in strenght a bit up and down but in general it was oke. The next day the sun was out but the wind first light. Later in the day the wind picked up again. By the end of the afternoon I was near “ Dover , NS “ and the wind prediction for the night was very light to no wind. And in this case it was better to find an anchor spot and the best one was in “ Portage Cove “ .

Going in there was not that difficult but I had to keep a good eye on the chart and the surrounding regarding the rocks you could see and the more dangerous ones the one you could not see.

But at 17.50 lt on June 07 the anchor was in and this time after clearing the boat a beer came out.

From here I wanted to sail for Louisburg and then from there make the jump across Cabot strait to Hermitage in Newfoundland. But the weather picture for the upcoming week was no good at all. For Friday the prediction was very strong winds from the south east. But after that had passed the wind would come for nearly a week from al directions. From where I was I needed 2,5 day a good wind direction. I decided to leave the next day and see if I could be in Newfoundland before the strong wind would be there. Wednesday morning the wind was nil and the sky grey but no fog. I left at 11.30 lt and used the engine for the first hour. Then the wind pick up and the sails came out and took over. The whole day the sailing went oke but during that first night the wind was not a lot but I could make 2 knots per hour in the right direction. When it became daylight the wind also was awake again and the speed picked up and the whole day we made good progress. And also during that second night the wind was good. During the morning the wind increased more and I had put 2 reefs in the main sail and rolled in the genua till it was pretty small. Once behind “ Pass Island “ what was the first land I saw from Newfoundland the swell was gone but “ hell “ broke loose. The gust from the wind reach the 40 and even 45 knots and Mylady was flying direction Hermitage. Luckily the gusts were a bit less in strength later but still pretty strong but the direction was oke. Near Hermitage the wind became a bit more calm. But in general the weather was areal Newfoundland one, rain and wind.

I had a friend in Hermitage from my arrival and he was there when I was near the harbour to direct me to a good spot and take my lines. And around 13.25 lt on June 10 , 2022 I was back in Newfoundland. It was this year 20 years back that I was here and although the weather was not good I felt very satisfied about my whole passage. One the boat was moored safe and sound Dan Skinner , my friend , stepped on baord and together we had a welcome beer. After we finished the beer Dan went home and I cleared the boat a bit and took it easy for the rest of the afternoon.

Halifax

Halifax is a good place to get parts and to do big shopping. I ordered a short wave radio in the Netherlands and it was not a problem for Armdale Yacht club to use there address to have it send to. ( as long your name and boatname is clearly on the outside ). And about 15 minutes walking from Horseshoe park dock – what is a good place to leave your dinghy – is a big shopping centre with a big Walmart and many other shops. And near there is Mufford Bus station from where buses go in all directions and the costs are 2,75 can Dollar for a ride. Don’t forget to ask the driver for a transfer ticket even you just go somewhere and back. You can then use the transfer ticket to go back. I used the bus a few times and it is good and a reliable regarding time schedule.

On one of the days I was there I walk from Jubilee boat ramp – an other good place to leave your dinghy – to down town. I took it easy and for me it was an 40 minutes walk. Just follow Jubilee road all the way and then keep on going straight ahead and at the end turn right and cross the road when you see the park and your are on the edge of down town. The “ Halifax Public Gardens “ are well worth a visit.

And once trough the park your in down town and then it is down hill to the main tourist attraction of the town “ the Waterfront “ . I was here 21 years ago also and at whole area was nothing going on. But now there is. For a start there is the Maritime Museum. And then onwards are all kind of bars and restaurants. Yes there are jetties and you can moor there. ( Costs I have no idea )

On a very good local radio station “ Breeze Radio 96,3 fm “ I had heard an ad from an optical shop. Immediately after I had that I had phoned them and had an appointment and that was also a reason I went down town. I was around 11.30 in the shop of Vogue Optical where I first got a good eye examine and afterwards I bought a complete new set of glasses because my eye sight had changed. After all was done the sales lady told me that it would take about 3 weeks to get all done so I arranged to have all send to Newfoundland. After I was done down town I took a bus what would stop near one of the shops of “ Noble Grape “ because I was after the home brew beer kits from Coopers and they sell them.

Yes they also sell wine kits but that is more complicated so it is not possible on board.

To the shop I went “ 6015 Lady Hammond Road “ they have a nice collection of those kits and I bought there 5 of them together with the right brewing sugar. Yes home brew , it is fun to do it , not that difficult and cheap. In Newfoundland all was has alcohol in it is expensive and one tin for home brew is only 23 can dollar and the sugar 3 . For 26 dollar I have 22,5 ltr of beer. I started all this home brew in New Zealand so all the stuff to do it I have on board.

Here the houses with the beautiful flowers along the patch back to the boatramp.

Around 17.00 that day I was back aboard Mylady after a nice day wandering in Halifax.

On Werdnesday late afternoon a whole bunch of sailboats where on the water. It was there race evening. First the bigger boats started and afterwards the smaller ones. It was a nice sight to see them going also because it was a nice sunny evening.

Above two pictures from start of the race and the most right one is the Armdale Yacht Club. By the way there shower can you use 24/7 even if you are on anchor and you can get there fresh water that was no problem. And you can get diesel and petrol there as well.

I stayed a few day’s more in order to do shopping and some boat work. But on June 4 , 2022 it was time to continue going north and so around 15.20 the anchor was up and once more I was underway again.

From Shelburne sailing to Halifax.

On May 29 , 2022 at 08.50 lt I had my anchor up and was underway further north.

The weather was sunny but fresh and the wind was westerly 3 bft. Shortly after I had the anchor up the sails were up and out ( I left the engine off ) and I sailed nicely out of Shelburne Harbour. In Shelburne Harbour are two big fish farms. Instead of going out to catch fish on the ocean nowadays the fish is cultivated in big nets.

Once out of the harbour I had again to keep a sharp look out for the lobster pot markers. They were every where and some markers you see clearly but other only at the last moment.

Here some pictures of the lobster pot markers .

But all went fine none became a problem. After a nice day saling I dropped anchor in Port Mouton around 18.30 lt . This anchorage is a nice bay near a beautiful beach. There are some houses. I did not go ashore maybe next time when I will be here.

A beautiful sunset while on anchor in Port Mouton .

The next day , May 29 2022 at 06.14 , the anchor was out and I sailed away heading for Halifax. The first part was a perfect sailing morning with sun and a nice wind from the north west. But near Western Head

only 2,5 hour underway the wind was out to drink morning coffee. And so the iron sail Volvo Penta was kicked alive. Luckily it took only about 45 minutes before the wind came back . And yes it came back good. When I left Port Mouton I had my doubts if I could reach Halifax in one go but with the wind I got from then on it was not a problem any more. Underway I still had to keep a sharp lookout for the lobster pot markers. And there were also enough lobster boats out to check there pots .

Here a few pictures of the boats I saw .

Around 17.00 I was approaching Halifax and it is not a difficult approach but with the strong wind from straight behind I had to careful. Suddenly the wind dropped and turned a bit and did other funny tricks. I was sailing wing to wing but had to change that fast. And then the funny thing happened that the wind cam back from where it was before

This is the lighthouse you pass when you enter Halifax from the south.

But oke the good thing was that I could sail the way into the harbour. Twice harbour control called me asking what my intention were and to tell me that two big ships were coming out. This information off course was very welcome. One of the ships that came out was the cruiseship “ Zaandam “ from the Holland America line. So one dutch vessel and an other Mylady in .

In Halifax Harbour I sailed till the entrance of the West Arm and the last bit I used the engine to make it to the spot where I wanted to drop anchor. A long time when I was there you could anchor everywhere near the “ Armdale Yacht Club “ but now there were moorings from boats all over the place but I found a nice spot and around 21.00 the anchor was in and the boat cleared and the welcome beer out .

Marion , Cape Cod Canal and to Nova Scotia

The village of Marion is a small place. It is a quiet place with some big houses . There are two places where you can buy some groceries. One is in the main street – “ the General Store “ – and the have everything but only a small amount. And the other place is a bit out of town. In the main street you can find a nice coffee shop, the post office and a very nice souvenir shop and that is it.

On the waterfront is the Yacht Club and they have moorings ( low season 25 us , high season 50 us per night ). The whole bay behind Ram island is full with moorings. There is an official anchorage but that is very small, just big enough for one boat. It is just next to buoy 10 when you come in. The holding ground though was good is nice sticky mud.

While I was there I had good contact with Hannah Moore and we had a few beers and meals together. Her hospitality was amazing.

After nearly a week there it was time to continue going north. There was a good weather window to make it in one go to Shelburne in Nova Scotia. I left on May 25 , 2022 around 11.00 in order to have the current in the Cape Cod Canal with me .

There was a nice wind and I could roll out the genua and sail nearly till half way the channel. It is a very wide and nice waterway to pass but the current can run up to 3,5 knots so it is handy to have that with you. At 14.50 I passed the breakwaters on the other side and set course to Race Point to pass Cape Cod.

The last landmark – Race Point – I saw from the USA .

The weather was beautiful and so the sailing went well. Around 19.15 I cleared the point and then I changed my course heading for Cape Sable on the south point of Nova Scotia. The next day the sailing was good and I made good progress. On the first evening I had a pot dolphins who came visiting me for a short while .

On May 27 the weather had changed to overcast and rainy. And while sailing near Cape Sable I had to keep a very good look out for lobster pot markers. They were every where. I went over one and it got sticked behind the rudder but luckily it came loose again by itself. At 18.00 I passed Cape Roseway lighthouse and made my way into Shelburne Harbour. I sailed nearly till the anchorage, But while I sailed in there was some nasty weather with rain and wind.

The last half of the harbour I therefore did only on a small genua. At 18.00 lt , May 27 2022 the anchor was in and I cleared the boat and took my welcome beer and made myself something to eat. But the fun for this evening was not over yet. Around 20.30 I phoned “ Canpass “ . That is the official way to get cleared in Canada and yes it goes by phone. The men I got on the line was not that friendly and started to tell me that the port was closed for entry due to covid. I told him that just a few day’s ago every according the official website from “ CBSA “ ( the official authority for regarding customs etc ) was reopened again. Then I had to wait a few minutes and after that he took all information he wanted to know. But the “ joke “ was at the end. I had to come with the boat to yacht club , go alongside there and wait for customs who were on there way to do the formalities on board. And so I first phoned the club to tell them about it and it was no problem and then preprepared the boat for going alongside. That done I took the anchor out and went to the yacht club , found the jetty in the pich dark and tied up and waited for the authorities. They had to do an hour drive from Yarmouth but they came and were very friendly. The senior officer took all the particulars and then stamped my passport and that the main thing. After they had left I went back on anchor. And then an electronic chart is very handy because |I just had to follow my track in to come to the anchor spot again and drop anchor again. ( a mooring from the club was “ only “ 35 can dollar ) And after all was oke took an other beer and went for a good sleep.

Portsmouth , Norfolk and continue sailing North.

While I was alongside in Portsmouth I of course walk around to see something from the surroundings. The afternoon after I tied up I walk along the waterfront to were I knew was the tourist office. But once there the office was closed. While walking back to down town I run into a big flea market and while looking around I found a brand new stainless Thermos bottle and a Thosiba laptop for the total of 10 us dollar. The Thermos bottle was already worth the bargain but the laptop was also working.

On the flea market I ask about the tourist office and it had moved to the main street. That sunny Saturday afternoon there was more to do in the mainstreet and one of the things was a small art market. Also there was very interesting stuff and a nice atmosphere.

PortsmouthPortsmouth centre is a full of old houses and it is very interesting to walk around and have a look at them. Near the place I was moored was not a supermarket but about 20 minutes walking is a big “ Food Lion “ . In the main street what starts just next to the landing are a lot of bars and restaurants. There is also a good bus system and the buses leave about 10 minutes walking from the landing . It was approximately 20 minutes to the Walmart , costs 2 dollar and for seniors 1 dollar.

From the landing the ferry to Norfolk departs every half hour. The best thing is to buy a ticket on board and the ferry cost the same as the bus and it is a nice trip from about 15 min. Norfolk is complete different then Portsmouth. It has many high buildings and looks modern.

I was told a long time the whole centre burned down and that is why you hardly have old buildings. It is interresting to walk around in down town. The water front where you come of the ferry has a big building with bar and restaurants but in the centre are there also plenty bars and restauranst. And about 15 minutes – still in down town – walking there is a big shopping mall.

After 6 days finally the northerly gale that was blowing outside was gone and on Friday may 13 I let the ropes go and pointed the nose of the boat in the direction of Hampton roads . Near the city the visibility was oke but further out the fog became thicker and I had to keep a good eye on the chart and the other boats.

Because there were many pleasure boats on move . But all went oke and around 11.00 lt I was safe on anchor near Phoebus what is near Hampton. Here you have on one side the big high way what is very busy but the noise is more a back ground noise. I stayed here just to wait for the right wind. On May 14 early evening there was a nice wind on the anchorage and from the right direction. I decided to go and did the last things and around 22.50 the anchor was up and I was heading to entrance of Chesapeake Bay. But once outside the harbour the wind was completely gone. It was then up to the engine. About 3 nautical miles out a light wind pick up and I stopped the engine and had the sails out and we made about 3 to 4 knots ( there was about one knot current with us I should say ) and it was nice easy sailing and sometimes the wind picked up a bit. And it was a clear night what also was an good thing.

At 01.15 I passed the bridge / tunnel what is at the entrance of Chesapeake Bay. There I first got a notice from the traffic control to hurry up with crossing the fairway because a real big container ship was heading that way and when I passed the second fairway a real big cruiseship called me asking me to stay clear of that vessel what I off course did she was to big and fast to mess with.

Once passed all this it was clear of other traffic and I had a nice favourable wind. I was heading for the Cape Cod area .

When daylight came the fog came back and the wind was gone totally. So it was engine time again for the next few hours. But just before noon the wind picked up again and I could sail. At that stage the fog was coming and going but the wind stayed. On the early evening of May 16 the sky became more dark at a distance and I could see and hear the lightning and thunder. And yes at 19.10 I was hit by a strong squall with lots of rain and strong winds but luckely there was no lightning close . Luckely it came from behind but I lowered the main completely and continued only on a small genua. The squall didn’t last long but the rain took a bit longer before it stopped. In the mean time the lightning and thunder was still there but slowly went further away. By 21.20 all was back to normall again and I had the main up before it became dark. The next day was nice sailing weather with a good wind from the right direction and the sun was also out.

On May 18 early morning I entered Buzzard Bay. And that morning the wind was very gusty. A few times I had to put a reef in the main and then a 30 min later I could take it out again. When I was further in bay near the village of “ Marion “ the wind slowly died out but came back from an other good direction. I had decided to go to that village because 21 years ago I had met a family while we were together in a harbour in Newfoundland and they used to live there on there own island ” Ram Island ” and I want to see if they were still there. At 16.00 I finally was on anchor more or less in between the mooring who were every where. I cleared the boat before I put the dinghy in water. Then it was first time for a cup of thee before I went to the island. And yes they were still there and very happy to see me again. Here are some pictures of the island.

Beaufort , ICW direction Portsmouth / Norfolk.

The next day after the engine repair I took it easy. I had a relaxed start of the day with first coffee followed by fried eggs with coffee as breakfast. After that was down I prepiared the dinghy and went ashore. Beaufort is a nice village and it is very touristic.

There are many restaurants and souvenier shops. But it is a friendly village. I walked around and went to the only supermarket where they didn’t had much and not the bread I was looking for. After my small walk I went back on board and took it as I started the day , easy and relaxed. I stayed a few day’s there on anchor. On Saturday morning I just went one more time ashore just to have a small walk. But I came back to the boat with a pair new “ Leeks “ shoe’s bought at the shop “ Island Trades of Beaufort “. The lady there gave me good advice and in the mean time we had a friendly chat.

Once back at the boat I took the dinghy on deck and prepaired the boat for departure. At 14.20 lt the anchor was out and I went underway. I was heading for Norfolk , Virginia by means of the Intra Coastal Waterway.

Parts of this route go over open water and parts trough parts that are dredged. After the bridge the wind was oke and I could roll out the genua and sailed a big part. The last miles I motored till I was near a spot where I could anchor. You have to make sure you outside the channel because big commercial traffic goes on also night time. And an other thing were the small beacons from the lobster pots. You have to be carefull that you don’t get any of them in your prop. Oke all went good and I found a safe spot . I only had 40 cm under the keel left but in this part of the ICW is hardly and tidal influence.

I slept very wel and the next day during breakfast to stay that day there were I was. During the morning I worked on improving the setting of the genua. I had rolled out a bit long and the skipper of the nearby catamaran came over to ask if all was oke. Yes I told him and he came on board and we had a nice chat.

The next day around 09.20 I was underway again . The wind was calm from south so out came the genua again and off went the engine. And once on open water the main also went up. That whole day till I was near a dredged channel again I sailed. And again trough the channel I used the engine. Just outside the channel I found a good spot and down went the anchor. The next day there was a stronger south wind and this day I sailed only on the genua. And by 14.00 I was near a nice spot and safe on anchor.

Along the ICW you see all kind of things Like a place for campervans , and I saw a small dear walking along the water, in one of the dredged channel you have to watch out for the tree stumps , and here a yard full of boats.

The next day I had to pass a dredged channel of 23 nautical miles . And what do you think , the wind was right and of went the engine and out the genua. But which the genua out it did go well. I took that in again and put the full main out and that went better and I sailed the whole channel . I was early enough out of that channel. And I continued sailing up north till I passed the highway bridge and after that I found myself a good spot to drop the hook. The next day started again sailing on the genua only. I had to cross Albemarle Sound what is a big open water. The weather was nasty with rain and wind that was not constant in strength. And after an hour underway a “ nice “ thundery started . The wind dropped but I still could sail. After about 45 min the sky cleared and the sun was there. And again I sailed all the way till a dredged part where I used – just for safety reasons because there is not much roon – the engine.

A few of the big ships that pass trough the ICW.

Other ” big ” traffic.

But once past out the genua went. Around 19.00 I was just outside the ICW on anchor. During the evening the thundery came back in full force and on the radio were warnings about it. But I was safe and sound on anchor but some of the thunder was pretty close. The next day was a wett one with light rain and that day I motored the whole part but it was only a short part.

Here Mylady moored near ” Great Bridge ” . The last two pictures are from the lock.

And at 10.30 I was safe and sound moored at the landing in front of the “ Great Bridge “ high way bridge. Here you are in walking distance of a big supermarket and all kind of other shops. This spot is mentioned on the website about free docks in the whole ICW. And yes I did big shopping , mainly fresh , I had the gas bottle that was empty refilled at the “ Mobil “ . And with the help of the museum I made my water tank full. And as last I took 10 us gallon of diesel in at the marina across the landing. On May 07 at 08.00 I passed the bridge and moored 10 min later in the lock. After 20 minutes in lock the doors opened and I motored the last miles to an other free mooring this time in Portsmouth what is opposite Norfolk.

Some of the big bridge you pass before you are in Norfolk.

Here I found a good spot for the coming day’s. The prediction of the weather was a strong northerly gale and I was safe for that. This mooring is a nice spot , just of the main street and the ferry to Norfolk goes from here. The only disadvantage is that every time it is high water the jetty is submerged so if you want to go ashore you have to go trough a bit of water.

The whole time I was moored here there were a few other boats also waiting for better weather.

Underway to Beaufort , North Carolina , USA .

After the mess with going anchor up was solved I went underway. The wind was east what was on the nose but it didn’t matter. The sun was out , the wind good and it was not to strong. It was wonderful close hauled sailing and tacking between all the other traffic like all the small motorboats and other sailboats.

All the way on the other side of the bay I had to decided if I would go out on the ocean or trough the Intra Coastal Waterway. This last one runs just inside the coast and is partly a canal and partly pieces of rivers and bay’s. Once in it you have to watch where you go. Don’t go outside the canal or you are fast in the mud. This means you have to be alert and keep a good eye on the chart. The weather prediction was no wind for the wind for the next day what made that I went in the ICW. I was just in or I had the first bridge. I had to wait about 20 minutes for an opening but then it went all fine.

The whole next stretch I had to use the motor but besides that there was enough to see and everybody in the small power boats were friendly and waved. To store there boats they have a special way if you live along the ICW. They just take the boats out of the water .

Around 18.35 lt that Saturday , April 23 I found a nice spot to drop the hook and that was what I did. That is the good thing about the ICW you always can find a peaceful anchor spot. After all was cleared I took a beer to celebrate that once again I was on the ICW.

The next morning I was up early and after coffee and breakfast the anchor came up and I went underway again. The ICW early morning is a special thing and wonderful to see and feel. During the morning there was not much other traffic besides a shrimp fishing boat

but around noon more small power boats showed up and sometimes a big power boat passed me. I was heading for Georgetown. Then in the afternoon the wind came from the right direction and I rolled out the genua and stopped the engine and had a nice sail in the ICW . I grew up sailing in canals so nothing new to me.

I could go to that place and drop anchor or if the weather prediction was oke I could go back on the ocean and go directly to Beaufort. I did this last option and at 17.40 lt on Sunday April 24 I was back on the big sea again. It was a wonderful sailing evening and the sailing in direction of Beaufort went perfect. The next day the wind was there the whole day and with wing to wing the sailing went smoothly. But during the evening the wind picked up and after midnight the wind was real strong and the swell had pick up as well. So I reduced sail to keep all under control. And what happened early morning , the wind dropped till a nice light breeze and the swell also went down. But it was still down wind .
At 15.00 local time I past the outer breakwaters and sailed only under the genua in. I decided to skip Beaufort and keep on going to a nice spot in nature. While I came in a big cargo ship came out what made that I started the engine just to be sure no suprises could happen. All went fine and also passing the big high bridge went oke .
But then the problems started . Suddenly big blue smoke came from the exhaust, yes no good at all. I steered immediately for the shore and with some help tied up there and stopped the engine. After that done I tied up the boat better and also put some fenders between the boat and shore. By that time the harbour police had arrived and asked if I wanted to file for an emergency. I asked him about how and what if I said yes. It is the USA so you have to careful with what you say but it was no problem. After that done I opened the engine room but could not see anything wrong. I checked all what I could . Then I made a phone call to Bob and enginer who worked on the engine a few years back just to asked advice but he could not say a lot. But he told if I took it carefully I could use the engine for a short while. In the mean time the police asked if I needed a tow company because I had to move . I was able to delay that a bit so the current went down more and then I took easy of back under the bridge and when I was enough clear I rolled out the genua till half and switched of the engine and sailed Mylady all the way to the anchorage in front of Beaufort . There I used the engine to bring her on anchor and around 18.50 I was safe and good at anchor. Time for a beer to relax a bit. No I did not look at the engine any more . I thought tomorrow there is a whole day for that . I made myself something to eat , had an other beer and had a peaceful night.

The next day I attacked the engine and yes I found what was wrong. After I had removed the cover for the rocker arm from the valves I saw a broken bar. And the broken piece made that a valve was not sitting good and the smoke was the result. With a drill, tap and a little screw I made a repair and all was oke again. This morning I had phoned some companies who could help with solving the problem but they were very expensive so by doing it myself I had a very good feeling about my repair.

Charleston , South Carolina , USA

After I had cleared the boat I had put the dinghy in the water. I collected all my papers and after I had called the marina office from “ Safe Harbour Marina “ to ask if they were open I went ashore to arrange my clearence for the USA. I went to the marina office because they suppose to be able to help me with this. They made several phone calls but nowhere was answer. So that didn’t work and I went back to the boat and left it for the next day. That night I slept very good and after my morning coffee and breakfast I called the marina again and this time things got rolling. The marina made an appointment with the Customs and Border Patrol , CBP. I was asked to come to the marina with Mylady for this but after an other phone call that was cancelled and I had to go to a terrace of a waterfront restaurant and the officer from CBP would meet me there and all went well. Then trough him an appointment was made with the harbour authorities in order for me to get my cruising licence for the USA. And that was the day – Saturday  23 April at 09.00 – at the Columbia Terminal what is all on the other way of town. The next morning I was awake early and was also early ashore and walked all the way to that terminal. I was one hour early but that was not a problem and I got my cruising licence and finally all paperwork was done.

The terminal entrance

Near the terminal was a marina and like I have seen in more places in the USA they stack the small boats on a special way.

stacks of boats

After that was done I went hunting for a sim card for my mobile.

the bus I took to Walmart

At the end I took a bus to Walmart and there a friendly lady sold me a package including also an sim card. Now I was hooked up to the USA systems like internet and phone.
The way to the Walmart was easy but to come back was a problem and at the end it took me nearly two hours while it had took me only 40 minutes to get there. Once back in town I took a bus what was heading for a stop near the marina and around 17.00 I was back on board.
The next day my legs refused duty – why mmm a seamen walking like crazy after a long time at sea that is asking for problems – so I stayed on board to give them a rest. The next day it was a bit better and I went to “ Publix “ the big nearby supermarket and did some shopping for fresh stuff. By the way this supermarket is about 30 minutes walking from the marina. During the rest of the week I played the tourist and walked around trough down town.

Charleston is an old city with lots of history and you can see that on all the buildings and houses. And it is a big tourist place with every day a big cruise ship moored near the city. What is worth a visit is the city market. No it isn’t a market with veggies etc but a tourist attraction and that kind of stuff for sale but still nice to visit.  And at the waterfront is a nice park .



Above first the entrance of the city market and inside of it and below a few pictures of the waterfront park.

And on Saturday there is the farmers market what takes place in the centre of down town in a nice park.  You can buy there all kind of things and also veggies . And you can there also eat something and in the mean time listen to some live music.


Yes Charleston was well worth the stop. But after more then a week it was time to move on. On Saturday 23 April at 14.00 the anchor suppose to come out. Yes suppose because the anchor chain from Mylady was wrapped around an old anchor what came up first and was altogether very heavy. It took me 20 minutes to clear that mess and the when my anchor came up it was stuck behind a piece of rusty steel what was fast with  a line to something on the bottom.


Luckily that was easy to clear and at 14.30 I was underway again . It was a beautiful sailing day so the sails went up and I started to tack – the wind was on the nose – direction sea. 

Continue reading “Charleston , South Carolina , USA”

!!!!! BENG !!!!!

That is what heard that night on April 7 while I had a rest. I was up in a second and rushed to deck. But Mylady was still sailing oke and with the deck light on everything looked oke . I made a round on deck and checked the rigging and the sails but all was oke. With a torch I checked all above the spreader lights but also there everything looked oke. By then I had already a idea what it could be so I went back inside and opened the cupboards on the portside – from that side the beng hadcome – near where the chainplates from the rigging are and checked that. And yes one off the threaded ends that keeps the top rigging tight was broken.

( sorry not the best pic but it gives you a idea )

When I was underway trough the Pacific a long time ago the same had happened. On arrival all the six rods where replaced. In the mean time one only had broken again and that was the starboard top rigging one. Oke it was of course not a good thing but luckily I had easy access to it and the broken one was easy to remove. As replacement I had a long peace of right threaded end on board. So the saloon was converted to a small workshop and I first had the old one removed.

Then a small vice was clamped on the table and a piece of the threaded end was cut . Sounds easy but in the mean time we were sailing along and the boat was moving but luckily not to wild. After I had the piece I checked it if it was oke and that was the case.

About 20 minutes later the whole job was done and I could start to clear the saloon and the bed again. That done it was time for a well earned beer.

More miles heading up north .

The sailing after I past “ Cabo San Juan “ at the NE point of Puerto Rico went excellent.

Cabo San Juan

The wind was all the time SE and in strength between 4 and 5 bft. It was real blue water sailing. The only weather forecast I had was the one I could pick up while passing Culebra and that told me what I had those few first day’s and it was all the time correct.

In the early hours of Thursday , April 07 while I was resting I heard a very very load BENG. I jumped up and went to deck but all looked oke when I made a round . The sails were oke , the rigging also. Then I had a look inside and checked the rigging there and yes there was something broken. Luckily we were sailing down wind and I had all on board to make a good repair and two hours later all was oke again. And time for a beer to celebrate that all was oke again.

I knew that by the time I would be at the entrance of the Northeast Providence Channel the wind would first drop and then coming strong back from the north . And yes that happened . In the night the wind dropped and around 01.30 lt was gone complete so I took the genua away and put two reefs in main and let the boat drift while I took a rest .

At 04.30 the wind generator started to make a lot of noise what was the signal that the wind was back. And it picked up fast but indeed from the north so I had to sail close hauled and tack. And yes it was pretty rough but Mylady danced her dance and went oke trough all of it. I decided to make a stop behind some islands for the coming night and around 20.30 I was at anchor behind Egg Island . What was the use to go against this strong wind while the wind would turn the right way within 24 hours. I had a good night rest and the next day after coffee and breakfast did some boat jobs. I the mean time the wind was slowly turning the right way and also went down in strength. At 16.00 I had the anchor up and left. I decided to sail for Charleston , USA what was still about one week sailing .

There is a “ bit “ of traffic in the Northeast Providence Channel as you can see on the sreenshot from the chart and on the two pictures two of the ships I saw . But the visibility was oke so it was not a big deal but I had to watch it good. Luckily the wind was oke so the sailing went good.

Once I was out the channel and sailing up north I had some rain and as you can see on the picture a beautiful rainbow. And sunsets are also most of the time beautiful if you out on the ocean.

Sometimes birds want to rest also and what is better then a “ island “ . here are two pictures of those who cam and rest on board . The one on the guardrail foreward only stayed short. His feet were not made to sit there. The other one stayed the whole night.

Once I was pasted that Northeast Providence Channel The wind turned more east so it came from the starboard side and it was beautiful sailing along the coast of the north Bahama’s. When I came away under the lee of the Bahama’s the ocean swel came back but it was low. The whole three day’s sailing up north the weather stayed good and with it also the wind. During the last night the wind picked up till 6 bft and the swell got nasty. I had main down till the 2 nd reef and only a small genua. But during daybreak the wind was down again till 3 bft and the swell also down. The last part till the breakwaters from the harbour of Charleston went easy going. Once past the head of the breakwaters the swell was gone and sailing inside went good. When I sailed in a very big containership went in and an other one come out. All was not a big deal there was room enough.

After the breakwaters you enter a bay and then it is still 1,5 hour sailing till the anchorage near Safe Harbour Marina. During that piece sailing was rough . Luckily I had already a reef in the main and I had to roll the genua a big piece in. I had gusts up to 30 knots / 6 to 7 bft. But I sailed her al the way in and only close to the anchorage the engine went on and around 14.00 local time I was safe on anchor after 1513 nautical miles sailing.I cleared the boat and after that was done it was time for a welcome beer. In one straight line it is from here only 1500 nautical mile to go to Newfoundland so we are nearly there.

Here the route I sailed this trip.

From Guadeloupe sailing up north.

That first night at anchor I slept very well. The next morning – Wednesday , 23 March , 2022 – after the coffee and breakfast I prepared the dinghy. When that was done I made sure that I had all the papers for clearing in , in my bag . Then as last thing I collected all my washing. That done I went to the marina office. That dinghy ride took me 10 minutes and I even could find a spot at the dinghy dock what was pretty full. Clearing in is easy on the French Islands . There are two computers in the marina office with a special program on it and you yourself just fill in the form and have it printed. Then the marina staff want to see your passport and ships papers to do a check and when all is fine they stamp it , sign it and after you pay 5 euro all is done. Next thing was my visit the laundromat. There I had to wait a while before a machine was free but I was not in a hurry at all. When the machine was going I went for a beer together with a lady who also had to wait . She took a thee and I a beer and as good gentlemen I said I will pay for this. But I got a bit of a shock – yes welcome in the Caribbean – because it costed me 7 euro.

Back at the laundromat the wash was done and I had it also trough the dryer. On the way back to the dinghy dock I made a stop at the small supermarket to buy some fresh stuff. And yes also here it were Caribbean prices but I needed something and the other nearest supermarket was somewhere in town . And that was all what I wanted to do today so around 15.00 I was back on board.

On Thursday I went ashore again and took the bus to down town to have a walk trough the city. In 2019 I was here also so I new a bit the way. But once I was down town I saw that most shops were closed. Why I had no idea but later I found out that it was a public holiday. Oke I just walk around a bit and was early back at the marina . There I went to the supermarket again and that done I went to the marina office to do the check out already and that done I went back on board and took the dinghy back on board. By 16.00 I picked up the anchor and went to fuel station in marina to fill up with water. That was a bit of a problem because on public holidays you can not get water but I got it anyway. Afterwards I went back on anchor .

The next morning – Friday ,25 March – around 07.00 the anchor was out and I was underway

to “ Anse de Bouillante “ what is a small place on the west coast of Guadeloupe. The first part was a rough sail but once behind the island it was better. Behind the island you have strong gusts coming from the mountains and half way the wind drops and start turning all ways . But I managed to sail the whole way and around 14.30 lt the anchor was in .

I cleared the boat and then it was time for a swim . And the water was of very good temperature. There were about 10 other boats there on anchor. The next day I stayed there and went ashore to buy some fresh bread and the bakkery. Anse de Bouillante is what I should call a nice littl Caribbean village.